Clamp Plier
Uncategorized November 19th. 2009, 1:26pmClamp Plier
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Wire binding clamping Tool
How to hookup or disconnect a laundry machine and dryer - instructions from Austin movers
Part of the moving experience is getting items prepared for transport.
In this article let's advise about a couple of items that need attention before and after your move.
This article is about the disconnection and hook up of your laundry machine and dryer.
Once you decide on the day that you will perform the task of disconnecting the laundry machine and dryer from their locations, this is what you will need to insure a successful task.
Tools and items you will need:
· Screwdrivers (either flathead or diamond point (Phillips)
· Slip joint pliers
· Towels
· Bucket
Let's address the dryer 1st.
· 1st thing to do is to move the dryer away from the wall and make sure not to pull the dryer out too far as to upset the natural gas connection (if applicable).
· Next thing to do is to disconnect the power cord from the wall socket. If you have a natural gas dryer then, turn off the gas valve at the wall.
· Then, with the pliers loosen the gas line and turn the nut until it removes from the valve. At this time you will want to pull the dryer out further to complete the next step.
· There is an exhaust duct in the back also and you'll want to remove the clamp from the wall side of the duct and then proceed to remove the other clamp on the dryer side. Use the slip joint pliers for this and be careful! The round flashing of the dryer and the wall is very sharp and if you pull too hard or quickly, you could get cut.
· I suggest that you keep your parts together with your dryer so, place the duct and the gas line inside a towel then place them inside the dryer.
· You also may want to take some packing tape and secure the power cord to the dryer.
· Put the dryer back in place until the movers come to move it. That is all that you have to do.
Let's address the laundry machine now.
· Again, the 1st thing to do is pull the laundry machine out a little bit and get your bucket and towels ready for this part.
· Remover the waste water hose from the drain pipe and try to place it in the bucket or in a towel so that any water that escapes from the hose won't spill out on to the floor.
· Next, turn off the hot and cold water valves.
· Then using the slip joint pliers, unscrew the hose connections at the wall and have the bucket close by to capture any escaping water.
· Most of the time all these hoses use a tie wrap to keep them all together so, you may want to carefully put the bucket on the ground and drain any remaining water from these hoses into the bucket.
· Now you may or may not want to disconnect the hoses from the laundry machine. If you disconnect the hoses you can be sure that there will be more water coming out from the laundry machine outlets.
· Place some towels on the ground near the outlets and disconnect the hoses.
· If you choose to keep the hoses on the machine then try to use packing tape to keep the hoses high and out of the way for transportation.
· If you take off the hoses, wrap them in a towel and place them in the laundry machine drum.
· Use packing tape to secure the electrical cord.
· Just for safety, you may want to tape the doors of the machines shut.
· You can put some soft items in the drums of the washer and dryer like shoes, towels, rugs or blankets to take up some of the useable space.
· Here is a great tip: If you tip the washer backwards and have towels behind the washer where the waste water outlet is, you can catch the remaining water that is in the washer. This is better than having the movers start to remove the washer and have the water leak out on the carpet or hallway. This will also keep any areas dry on the day of the move.
· Movers generally like to dolly the washer and dryer from the side so if you want to keep the sides from getting any marks then, get some cardboard and use packing tape to attach the pieces of cardboard. Put one extra strip of cardboard on the top side edges.
· Keep the tools with the washer and dryer during the move unless you need them for other items.
· Put the washer back in place until the movers come to move it. That is all that you have to do.
That should be it. Your washer and dryer should now be prepared for the move.
To hookup the washer and dryer you should go in the reverse order when you disconnected the machines.
The things you should watch out for in the hook ups are:
· The leveling feet of the washer and dryer should be adjusted so that any vibration the washing or drying cycles induce, will keep the machines from excessive shaking.
· Turning on the gas or the water should be the last thing to do.
· To be sure you have a proper connection of the gas line; you should spray some soapy water on the connections and check for gas bubbles. If there are bubbles then, you may want to tighten the connections just a bit. If that does not solve the issue then, remove the line and check the fittings for any foreign objects. Remove any debris and re-attach the line. If you still get bubbles then you will have to replace the dryer's gas line.
· Connecting the dryer duct can be a bit of a challenge to reconnect so, I would attach the wall side 1st by putting the clamp over the flashing 1st then, installing the hose, then, using the pliers to open the spring clamp onto the duct. If you have a screw clamp all you need to do is back off the clamp until it fits over the duct and then screw tight.
· The duct for the machine side is a little trickier but, you want to put the clamp on the hose then, slip the duct onto the dryer connection and then, with slip joint pliers, open the clamp to slip it over the connection and then tighten. Again if you are using a screw clamp you will have an easier time.
That should be it as far as the hookups.
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About the Author
Olivia Stewart of Cheap Austin Moving is a online consultant and writes about Austin Movers and the different cheap movers in Austin. Professional moving services at low hourly or per piece rates. A local moving company located in South Austin Texas.
What is the thickest metal that can be bent by hand?
I need to make a clamp for one of my headlights which has broken tabs. I need something that is durable but also can be bent with some muscle with some pliers or something. It also needs to be drillable with a dremel or drill.
It depends on how big the bracket is that you have to make. If it is 1" by 1" probably 1/16" metal. 2" x 2" 3/32" steel. If you have a vice, you can hammer 1/16" steel. You will find the bracke will not hold the headlight steady. A junk yard getting the proper part is the best bet.


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